By Gail Oberst
For the Oregon Beer Growler
One of Bend’s premier resorts is now catering to craft beer lovers. Tetherow Resort, renowned for its golf course, extravagant homes, vacation condos and incredible views, has beefed up its beer lineup this winter at its year-old pub, The Row. The new eatery is the latest feature at the resort, which opened in 2008.
Through March, The Row will feature a different Central Oregon brewery each month, turning over five of its 12 taps to GoodLife Brewery in January, Silver Moon Brewing in February and Crux Fermentation Project in March. With each new brewery lineup, The Row provides an information sheet on its offerings, including suggestions on which beer to pair with particular dishes. In addition to beer on tap, there are more than 30 other bottled beers available.
In addition to The Row’s extended beer lineup, the resort pub has added an Après Ski menu, available from 2-5 p.m. every day and all day Sunday throughout the ski season. The Après Ski menu features five dishes, including the bacon confit wings featured here, at local (as opposed to tourist) prices. The Row’s regular menu features two pages of sides, entrees, small plates, soups and salads that change weekly to reflect the region and the season. The Row is open to the public seven days a week.
The Row’s focus on food and beer pairing this winter came about organically, according to Tetherow’s executive chef Zac Hoffman. An avid fisherman and camper, Hoffman has been working at Tetherow Resort for the past five years, the last three as executive chef. Many of Tetherow’s owners and members are either brewers or friends of brewers, so providing specialty beer at the pub is a given. Tetherow’s sous chef Justin Birtola, formerly of Bend Brewing Company and Worthy Brewing Company, brought with him the inspiration for beer and food pairing, Hoffman said. The result: a cozy, upscale pub with good food and beer, and best of all, open to the public.
The Row’s Daikon and Cabbage Sauerkraut
Paired with Seven Brides Lil’s Pils
By Zac Hoffman, executive chef Tetherow
2 heads green cabbage, chopped rough
1 daikon radish root peeled and shredded
¾ of a cup of salt
1 teaspoon whole caraway seed
1 teaspoon whole fennel seed
2 whole juniper berries
*This recipe takes up to two weeks.
*Using freshly-washed utensils, mix all ingredients and put them into an appropriately-sized food-grade plastic container.
*Place parchment paper over the top of the mix and weigh down with a plate or clean heavy object. Cover with loosely-set lid to allow carbon dioxide gasses to escape during fermentation process.
*Place container in a warm place (around 75 F) where it won’t be disturbed
*Check after three days to be sure enough liquid has been released to cover the mix. If not, press down hard on the plate and add a bit of water, removing dried pieces from the top. Check every four days or so until it is soured to your taste. “I like to let it go for two weeks or when the released gas smells like…well…gas,” Hoffman said.
The pilsner’s crisp and bitter flavors accent the sour flavor of the sauerkraut while the cardamom-citrus finish goes well with the slight dryness, without overwhelming your palate. This beer and sauerkraut also go great with a banger or any other sausage. – Zac Hoffman
Bacon Confit Wings
Paired with 10 Barrel Pale Ale
By Zac Hoffman, executive chef Tetherow
5 pounds of wings
4 quarts of bacon fat
3 pieces of bacon
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon of salt and pepper
4 sprigs of thyme
*Heat bacon fat to 400 F.
*Pour over wings and add the rest of the ingredients.
*Cover and bake at 265 F for four to five hours or until wings are almost ready to fall off the bone.
*Let stand and cool at room temperature for one hour, then strain liquid into clear container.
*Refrigerate wings. When liquid cools, separate fat from solids on bottom, reserving fat for future use. (Save bacon fat every time you get a bacon craving until you get enough to cover wings.) Pan fry wings in reserved bacon fat and toss in Beer Buffalo Sauce.
Beer Buffalo Sauce
1 quart of Frank’s RedHot sauce
1 beef bullion cube
1 teaspoon lemon pepper
1 cup of molasses
½ cup of brown sugar
¼ cup of IPA or other favorite hoppy beer
1 tablespoon of fresh chopped parsley
1 tablespoon of fresh chopped thyme
*Heat and mix all ingredients until sugar dissolves. Cool.
10 Barrel’s Pale Ale offers just enough hop to stand up to the spice and sugar in the wings, and has a light zest that complements the sauce. – Zac Hoffman
Tetherow Resort’s The Row
[a] 61240 Skyline Ranch Road, Bend
General Manager/Partner: Chris van der Velde
Executive Chef: Zac Hoffman
Sous Chef: Justin Birtola
Monthly recipes and pairings from your favorite brewpubs around Oregon.