By Gail Oberst and Will Oberst-Cairns
Although most people think of Laurelwood’s Brewery and Pub locations in Portland as great places to get a beer, the business (now with four locations) also has an extensive menu – including lunches you can order online, a menu that includes a range of lunch and dinner entrees from kid’s selections to po’boys to Tuscan salmon at the Northeast location, pizza at the Southeast location. It also has quarterly brewers dinners that showcase Chef Richard Blake’s skills alongside those of head brewer Vasili Gletsos and his staff.
Laurelwood was founded in 2001 by husband and wife team Mike DeKalb and Cathy Woo-DeKalb, both of whom were dedicated to a providing a place for families to eat and drink. Laurelwood’s original brewery is now home to Columbia River Brewing.
Laurelwood moved to its current location at N.E. 40th and Sandy, and later opened a Portland airport pub, a Sellwood-area pub and the Half-Court Pub in Portland’s Moda Center.
Oregon Beer Growler’s man-about-food, Will Oberst-Cairns, was invited to the spring rendition of the Laurelwood brewer’s dinner, at its Sellwood location’s banquet room. For future brewer’s dinners, visit the website or subscribe to the brewery’s newsletter.
Following are Will’s comments on the entrée recipes and beer pairings featured here.
The whole-wheat ravioli was stuffed with feta cheese, garlic, and spinach and laced with brown butter béchamel sauce. It was paired with Laurelwood’s Mother Lode Golden Ale: 25 IBUs, 5.1% ABV.
Whole Wheat Ravioli
Recipe by Chef Richard Blake
Paired with Laurelwood’s Mother Lode Golden Ale
Brewed by Vasili Gletsos
2 C whole wheat flour
1/4 cup water
1 lb spinach
1 small yellow onion small diced
3 cloves garlic
1/4 C feta cheese
1 qt whole milk
1 small onion
1 bay leaf
1 whole clove
4 oz butter
4 oz all-purpose flour
With a Kitchenaid mixer using the dough hook, add flour and egg and mix on speed 3 add water slowly and mix until the consistency of ground coffee, adding water as needed once at the desired consistency, use the pasta roller attachment and start feeding the dough through the dough will crumble easily, so press a handful together and feed through the roller attachment setting on 1 once you get a few chunks of dough pressed, combine a few larger pieces and repeat to get a sheet of dough once a sheet is formed, set aside covered with a damp towel to prevent drying Repeat until all the dough is combined into sheets If they look rough, don’t worry. Re-feeding through the machine while gradually going down a size will make sheets uniform. Feed the dough through on each setting and twice on the last.
Filling: In a sauté pan, melt butter and add onion and garlic; sauté until onions are translucent add spinach and sauté until spinach is cooked add salt and black pepper to taste once cooked add mixture to cheese cloth and strain excess liquid set mixture aside in a flat layer to cool once mixture is cooled add to a food processer and add feta mix until a creamy consistency is reached, adding salt and pepper to taste Put into a piping bag for easy filling
Béchamel Sauce: In a sauce pan add 1 qt whole milk, 1 small onion with a slit in it for the bay leaf, and press clove into onion; add to milk and step for 40 minutes while milk onion, bay leaf, and clove are steeping, melt 4oz butter and add 4oz flour for roux; cook till golden brown Remove onion from milk; bring to a simmer and add roux, whisking till thick strain through a fine-mesh strainer.
Lay pasta sheet out even length Coat with water or egg and add spinach mixture to desired size. Lay another sheet of pasta same length and press closed to seal tightly and cut to desired size using a pasta cutter boil in water until al dente firmness.
Beer Pairing Notes:
Appetizers are sometimes hard to pair with beer because they are usually light and delicate. Most intense Northwestern brews would not go well with this dish, but the Golden Ale was perfect. The spinach crisps were light and airy with a hint of bitterness, which paired well with the Mother Lode. Within the cream there is a light lemony zest, again, a nice pair with the kiss of hops in this golden ale. What activities go well with this pair? Croquet and a summer picnic?
Fresh Blueberry Tart & Orange Curd
Recipe by Chef Richard Blake
Paired with Laurelwood Citrus Wheat Beer by Visili Gletsos
Yield: 1 pie-sized tart
1 C (about 4 1/2 ounces) all-purpose bleached flour
3 t sugar
1/4 tsp baking powder
1/8 tsp salt
4 t (1/2 stick) cold unsalted butter
1 large egg, beaten
For the orange curd:
7 oz sugar
6 oz orange juice
1 oz cornstarch
3 oz egg yolk
1 oz butter
Tart dough: Combine flour, sugar, salt and baking powder in a medium mixing bowl and stir well Cut butter into 1-tablespoon pieces and add to dry ingredients toss once or twice to coat pieces of butter Using your hands or a pastry blender, rub the butter into the dry ingredients by breaking it into tiny pieces, continuously pinching and squeezing it into the dry ingredients Continue rubbing the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles a coarse-ground cornmeal beat the egg(s) in a small bowl and pour over the flour and butter mixture stir in with a fork, continuing to stir until the dough begins to hold together, but still appears somewhat dry scatter flour on the work surface and scrape the dough onto it.
Press and knead the dough quickly three or four times, until it is smooth wrap dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour, up to overnight.
Preheat oven to 325 degrees on a floured work surface, roll the dough into a 1/4” thick circle Lay the dough into a tart pan with a removable bottom and press into the bottom and sides of pan, removing any excess. Poke the bottom of the crust with a fork several times bake until crust is set and golden brown Let cool completely and remove from pan.
Orange curd: Combine 5 oz orange juice and the sugar in a saucepan Combine the cornstarch with the remaining 1 oz orange juice in a small bowl Place the egg yolks in a small bowl bring the orange juice/ sugar mixture to a boil over medium-high heat once the mixture boils, temper the cornstarch mixture by adding a small ladle of the hot orange juice mixture to the cornstarch mixture and stirring well temper the egg yolks in the same manner add the cornstarch mixture to the pan, whisking to combine add the egg yolk mixture to the pan, whisking to combine bring the curd back to a boil and continue to whisk until thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove the curd from the heat and whisk in the butter stir the curd often as it cools.
To assemble tart: Pour cooled orange curd into cooled tart shell top the curd with fresh blueberries Chill the tart for at least 1 hour before cutting.
Beer Pairing Notes:
The Oregon blueberry tart is layered with orange curd, crème anglaise and candied oranges, on a lavender shortbread crust. This dessert was paired with Laurelwood’s Citrus Wheat, 16 IBUs, 4.8% ABV, also known as “Orange you glad I didn’t say banana.”
This Belgian-style wit, infused with orange juice, has some sexy appeal that complements the lavender and blueberry tart. There is a harmony of citrus and perfume-like lavender. The intensities of both the brew and the dessert match spot-on.
This tart and brew have a delicate sweetness reminiscent of girls in summer dresses sitting on the patio on a warm July night.
Laurelwood Brewery and Pubs
(a) 5115 N.E. Sandy, Portland
6716 S.E. Milwaukie Ave., Portland
Portland International Airport
Owners: Mike De Kalb and Cathy Woo-De Kalb
Chef: Richard Blake
Brewer: Vasili Gletsos
Monthly recipes and pairings from your favorite brewpubs around Oregon.