A large part of 10 Barrel’s success in Portland is due to head brewer Whitney Burnside’s unique beers. As far as the AB InBev purchase, she said, “There will always be those who frown upon it.” But she hasn’t had any issues with the acquisition and gets “complete creative freedom.” Photo by Patty Mamula
By Patty Mamula
For the Oregon Beer Growler
10 Barrel Brewing Co. opened its newest brewpub in the trendy Pearl area of downtown Portland in February 2015. The opening was just months after 10 Barrel shocked the craft beer world by selling to AB InBev.
It seems the Portland location had been in the works before the sale, but there was much local speculation about how selling out to the corporate beer giant would affect business. Predictions were negative.
Surprise. The Pearl location has been busy from the day it opened.
A large part of its success is due to brewer Whitney Burnside and her unique brews.
Burnside said, “The original plan was that I would make new beers and one-offs for limited release. I have complete creative freedom here.”
The core beers, such as Apocalypse IPA and S1NIST0R Black Ale, are still brewed in Bend.
So far, Burnside has made a mix of ales and lagers. She likes to throw in unusual beers that incorporate different processes and ingredients. A few examples:
— A lychee sour made with the fruit native to Asia that has a white grape flavor
— A Belgian ale made with ginger, honey and hibiscus
— A gose made with Casper pumpkins (the white ones) and bay leaves
The day we met, she had just released a witbier. This style is often brewed with coriander and dried orange peel, but she used dandelion root, toasted cardamom, fresh zested Meyer lemons and true cinnamon.
“We’re slowly starting to put these beers out in the market,” she said. They’re available at the Bend and Boise pubs.
One of her most popular beers, the first one she ever brewed here, is the Pearl IPA. “We keep making it. People love it. It’s the No. 1 best seller,” she said.
Burnside’s path to brewing started in culinary school. The Northwest native from Seattle traced her interest in cooking to TV celebrity chef Alton Brown. “I watched his show all the time,” she said. He’s the one who got her hooked on cooking with his technical, “sciency” style. His shows often focus on a single drink, dish or snack — such as shortbread cookies.
She attended Johnson & Wales University’s College of Culinary Arts in Denver with plans to become a chef. During an externship at The Herbfarm restaurant in Woodinville, Wash., she started making artisanal cheese and homebrewing. She fell in love with brewing and decided she wanted to become a brewer. For her, brewing is similar to baking. They both require detailed measurements, fermentation and meticulous attention to detail.
With her culinary school diploma and a little homebrewing experience, she started looking for a brewing job. She was a tough sell, as much for her lack of experience as her size. Although she finds people in craft brewing are open-minded about female brewers, her petite size didn’t help. “I had a hard time. Finally, Chad Kennedy, the brewmaster at Laurelwood, gave me an internship,” she said.
That was the chance she needed. From there, she put in a short stint at Upright Brewing, a brewery near the Moda Center in Portland that specializes in farmhouse beers. Both of these opportunities were steppingstones to her full-time job at Elysian Brewing Company in Seattle. She stayed there for a year before moving to Pelican Brewing Company in Pacific City, where she was the head brewer for three years. She took the job at 10 Barrel in December of 2014, several months before it opened. That meant she was there for the buildout and installation of the brewhouse.
“The cool part about being here from the get-go was I was able to acquire parts I needed to make the system complete,” Burnside said. She was involved with decisions regarding the piping, plumbing and changes in water.
Burnside brews twice a week, making one 20-barrel batch at a time. Right now, the facility doesn’t have a mill and all the malt is ordered pre-milled. “Bag by bag, we (she has a part-time assistant) climb up the stairs and empty the bags, usually around 25 in all, into the mash tun.” The bags, by the way, weigh around 50-55 pounds. “We’re usually mashed in by 7:30 a.m., well before we open at 11 a.m.,” she said. On the days she is not brewing, Burnside is cleaning, taking care of cellar work, monitoring or doing something with the beer that’s in-process or finished.
The 500-square-foot brewhouse is open on two sides to the pub, separated by a low, black metal railing from the guests. “It’s compact, but works well,” said Burnside. One challenge is finding space for barrel-aging. Right now, she’s managed to squeeze three barrels in between the fermenters. The previously used barrels that once held merlot are now filled with a Belgian dark strong called Alton Bruin after the chef who inspired her.
The craft brew world has been a welcoming place for female brewers, but people who aren’t in the industry are often less so. Burnside said it’s not unusual for a delivery driver to repeat his request to see the head brewer when she appears. As far as the AB InBev purchase, she said, “There will always be those who frown on it.” Personally she hasn’t had any issues.
“I’ve never been told to make a certain beer,” said Burnside. Her only direct contact with the corporation is with one of the people who oversees hop growing and availability. She likes being able to get some of the newer varieties of hops. Ultimately, Burnside is happiest when her hand controls the finished product.
10 Barrel’s founders, Garrett Wales and brothers Jeremy and Chris Cox, continue to run the brewery, which has expanded to the tune of $10 million, six new 400-barrel tanks and an increased capacity of 120,000 barrels a day. So far, even with increased production and new facilities, the quality has remained consistently high and business continues to increase.
By Kris McDowell
For the Oregon Beer Growler
The writer behind the recently published zine, A Feminist's Guide to Beer Drinking, is unsurprisingly, a girl (and yes, she's OK being a "girl"). She's also a certified Cicerone, coauthor of the book “Hop in the Saddle” and has her first solo book coming out this fall.
Before Lucy Burningham came to the beer mecca that is Portland, she was living in Utah, which has laws she diplomatically describes as "weird." Those used to the beer-favorable laws found here, however, might describe Utah’s limit of 4% ABV on beers sold at grocery stores and convenience stores “shockingly antiquated.” Moreover, so-called “high point beer” with an ABV above 4% is limited to bottles only, even at state liquor stores, breweries, bars and restaurants. Those laws have resulted in a general lack of craft beer (although that is slowly changing) and for Lucy, a lack of a palate for beer.
When she moved to Portland in 2005 to pursue a master's in creative nonfiction writing at Portland State University, she fell in love with the city after being wooed, in part, by its craft beer scene. While interviewing a beer sommelier for her first beer article she not only learned that beer could taste like bananas; Burningham was also impressed with the beer culture. People knew the brewers, they expressed a tremendous amount of pride for local beers and were passionate about their favorites. It's not hard to understand how she became hooked on Portland, on drinking craft beer and on writing about craft beer.
That first beer article turned out to be the start of a new point of interest and direction in her journalistic career. Lucy had written for years about food. In fact, the thesis for her master's was on Oregon truffles. But Portland's beer enticed her to explore her beer palate. Jumping into craft beer Portland-style, IPAs were her first love due to what she describes as their "bracing bitterness." Beyond being drawn in by the taste, her curiosity was piqued by the wide variety of color variations both within and across beer styles. All of this combined with her journalistic skills to produce pieces for well-known publications such as Bon Appetit, Men’s Journal, The New York Times and SAVEUR.
Out of her vast collection of writing, it was Lucy's first piece for The New York Times that she is most proud of. The article, “A Hop and a Sip to Fresh Ales,” was not only her first high-profile beer piece, but its research put her on a hop farm for the first time. At Sodbuster Farms in Salem, she was introduced to the excitement and incredible smells of the hop harvest. That, along with other beer experiences, opened her eyes to how much there was to explore, which she continued to do through writing. It also spurred her to pursue formal beer education and become a Certified Cicerone.
The Cicerone Certification Program offers three levels of certification with Certified Cicerone being the second, giving students a well-rounded education on beer as well as the skills needed to assess beer quality. Passing a comprehensive exam is necessary for certification and Lucy took the preparation to heart. She learned what it’s like to be a beer student — experiencing the intense pressure and feelings of being completely overwhelmed. Tough decisions arose, including times where she wasn’t sure whether she should just simply sip and enjoy a beer or continue to study in order to pass the exam. Her hard work and dedication paid off when she passed the exam and, as a bonus, she realized she had the content for her forthcoming book, “My Beer Year.”
Lucy Burningham writes about beer for well-known publications and has a new zine called A Feminist’s Guide to Beer Drinking. The journalist wanted to expand her experience with food writing by turning to beer after moving from Utah to Portland and falling love with the craft beer culture. Photo by Kris McDowell
While it will be a few months before her new book is available, her most recent work, A Feminist's Guide to Beer Drinking, is available in hard copy and online. Part of the Portland Zine series, it's one in a set of independently published booklets that reflects the progressive spirit and DIY ethos of the city. When Lucy was initially approached about the guide, she wasn’t sure she could pull it off. As she was brainstorming her approach, she started thinking about the women in the Oregon beer world and how they help to define it. Before she knew it, she was excited about what lay ahead.
With her proposal accepted, she interviewed a number of women, including Gayle Goschie of Goschie Farms, Miranda Kasten of Lady Brew Portland, Teri Fahrendorf of the Pink Boots Society and Whitney Burnside of 10 Barrel Brewing. She wanted the project to be part serious and part playful. It starts off serious, with a section on Gayle where she talks about her role in taking over a portion of the family hop-growing business and changing its focus to craft brewers to meet the changing times.
The playful tone becomes apparent as you move through the pages and find articles such as “How to Evaluate Beer Like a Lady *Or a Man *Or Fluid Gender of Preference.” There's also a guide for hosting a ladies' beer night that concludes with the instruction to "dream about your next ladies' beer night." In addition to Lucy's writing style, the zine's tone is assisted by illustrations from Deirdre Mahon and the layout, reminiscent of a scrapbook of favorite memories, pulls off the balance she was looking for.
The balance in the zine reflects a similar balance in Lucy's feelings about gender in craft beer. While acknowledging that gender can't be ignored and there are still biases and stereotypes, it's not something that she focuses on. Rather it's something that surfaces somewhat unconsciously — like when she finds herself at a beer event counting the number of men versus the number of women.
She's seen the number of women involved in craft beer increase in the last 10 years and takes the count as more of a quick observation than of something to dwell on. In her experience, she's generally found the beer community to be very welcoming, spurring her curiosity instead of discriminating against it. It's the occasional situation that catches her by surprise briefly. For instance, there was the time she was told by a guy that “you don’t look like a beer drinker,” which left her a bit bewildered. Much like the boy picking on girls on the playground, there's bound to be one who hasn't figured out that both guys and girls enjoy craft beer and can even enjoy craft beer together.
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