By Michael H. Kew
For the Oregon Beer Growler
Might as well hit the ground drinking.
After weeks in the tropics enslaved to Bud Light, I am desperate for some fresh Oregon IPA. Luckily, I know Scott Saulsbury.
I grab my bag and eagerly hail a taxi for the 3-mile ride from Rogue Valley International-Medford Airport to RAM, Southern Oregon’s newest brewpub. There I find the smiling Saulsbury, 49, lording over RAM’s shiny 10-barrel JV Northwest system.
Immediately he hands me a pint of tasty Table Rock NWIPA, his first seasonal recipe for the new 7,245-square-foot building that hosts a busy restaurant, a large multi-televisioned bar and Saulsbury’s brewhouse. Open since December 2016, the Medford site is Oregon’s fourth RAM, the chain that launched near Seattle in 1971. There are 30 other RAMs across Washington, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana and Ohio.
Naturally, RAM’s newest brewmaster is thrilled with his gig.
“Many of the regular Southern Oregon Brewing drinkers are coming to RAM,” he says. “They sort of followed me here. It’s really surprising and great. Been nice seeing the familiar faces. And they want some of the SOB beers to resurface here as specialties, so I’d like to do some knock-offs of what I was making over there.”
Over there is the once-popular Medford taproom fed by SOB’s 20-barrel brewhouse where, until a year ago, Saulsbury made popular flagships. With the property’s owner Tom Hammond, a Medford anesthesiologist, Saulsbury had helped start SOB in 2007, after working in real estate for a few years. SOB’s sales were steady through 2012, then dropped 10 percent annually until 2015, when Hammond chose to sell.
“We don’t have the resources to compete in today’s beer market,” Hammond told Medford’s Mail Tribune last September. “The idea of scaling back to be just a local brewery was not a possibility. Being in a smaller market made us very dependent on distribution to other parts of the state and region … we were never able to establish and maintain a big enough part of our local market to be stable in the long-term.”
“Tom hung on as long as he could,” Saulsbury tells me. “He loved it and wanted to keep it going and it got to a point where there wasn’t a way forward without a lot of capital. The business model working today is more of this heavy-on-the-retail/growler fills, because shelf space is so jam-packed. A good model for SOB would’ve been — if there was money — to own two or three retail outlets where they just serve SOB beer. More SOB beer sold over SOB taps, less through distributors, because you’re just not making money after they take their sales percentage.”
SOB poured its last pint the night of Sept. 30, 2016. The business remains for sale, turnkey and intact.
“I show it to prospective buyers all the time,” Saulsbury says. “It’ll be interesting to see what happens. It’s a beautiful brewery.”
Last summer, after brewing his last SOB batch, Saulsbury worked for O.A.R.S., a major outdoor outfitter and tour guide offering multi-day whitewater trips through the pine-forested canyons of the lower Rogue, from Galice to Foster Bar, the river’s official Wild and Scenic section.
“It was epic. I had a great six-month period exercising and being outdoors. If I could afford to, I would retire today and be a dirtbag river guide,” he says with a laugh.
The job stemmed from the company’s craft-beer rafting trips. “I’d gone on some of those,” he says, “being the beer guy with the jockey box.”
Makes sense. Growing up in Grants Pass, Saulsbury was raised on the Rogue, running right through town. Tailing a short college stint in Santa Barbara, Calif., he studied philosophy at the University of Oregon. “Then I needed to get a job,” he says. “I’d been homebrewing a little, and I thought brewing would be a fun career. I was lucky to be in on that early-1990s microbrewery wave.”
By 1993 he was an assistant at Eugene’s Steelhead Brewing Company, then moved to Bend and became brewmaster at Bend Brewing Company. But Saulsbury owned property off Highway 66, east of Ashland, and wanted to build a cabin there, so in 1997 he zoomed south to launch Caldera Brewing with Jim Mills. “I knew Jim just from the local Ashland scene,” Saulsbury said. “Caldera was his baby, and he needed someone to make beer. Good timing.”
But initially the business dragged, so in 1998 Saulsbury found another job back in Bend, this time at Deschutes Brewing. “My time there was probably my most creative. We had a group of brewers interacting constantly, talking about the possibilities. We were able to put quality ahead of cost. Carrying that along through the years has allowed me to keep that alive in all the brewing opportunities I’ve had.”
Amid river guiding, Saulsbury got wind of the RAM slated for Medford. “An ex-Deschutes friend of mine was the brewmaster at the Salem RAM, so I contacted him, then RAM directly through a recruiter before they’d even posted the job. The building hadn’t been built, and RAM likes to hire locally, so they were sort of waiting for people to come out of the woodwork.”
“One of my questions for them during my interviews was: how much creativity will I be able to bring to the table? With the flagships, RAM wants people who have had RAM beers elsewhere to have the same experience here. But with the seasonal specialties here, RAM is definitely encouraging me to make crazy stuff and have fun. It’s going to be great.”
RAM Restaurant & Brewery
165 Rossanley Drive, Medford
By Sarah Mason
For the Oregon Beer Growler
Four Salem breweries have made it their mission to quench the thirst for craft beer in Oregon’s capital.
Together, the founders of Gilgamesh Brewing, Salem Ale Works, Santiam Brewing and Vagabond Brewing formed the Salem Brewery Association, a nonprofit focused on fermenting the state capital’s craft-beer culture.
Their motto, “Drink Salem Beer,” is a call to action urging the enjoyment of Salem beer, Salem craft breweries and ultimately the Salem community. For a long time, Oregon beer has left a good taste in the mouths of beer drinkers. But Salem has gone unnoticed among many fans of craft.
“Oregon is hands down the best craft brewing state there is, so it’s kind of strange that the capital has been neglected so far,” said Alvin Klausen from Vagabond.
If this is true, then why has such little attention been paid to one of Oregon’s most important cities?
“Salem has been overlooked as anywhere to consider when seeking out craft beer, even by those living here,” said Jake Bonham, the association's new president and co-owner of Salem Ale Works.
In recent years, Salem’s craft beer scene has started to bubble up, and the Salem Brewery Association is encouraging Oregon beer drinkers to reconsider Salem.
“I think what’s happened over the last seven years is that Salem has started to develop a craft beer scene,” Klausen said. “A few Salem-based breweries have formed, and we want to raise awareness about it.”
Other than McMenamins and RAM Restaurant & Brewery, Gilgamesh is the oldest brewery out of the new crop in Salem at four years old. Compared to other beer scenes throughout the state, Salem is young.
“Salem beer is so far behind,” Klausen said. “Eugene has Ninkasi, which is eight and Steelhead, which is much older. Portland has Widmer, which is 20 or 30 years old now and Rogue, on the Coast, is pushing 30 years. Then in Salem our oldest is only four! We just want to bring awareness to our beautiful craft beer.”
One thing that sets the Salem Brewery Association apart from others like it in the state is that it is centrally located, making access to other metro areas relatively easy.
“Other than the fact that our beer is really awesome, we are incredibly centrally located for the population of Oregon,” Klausen said. “We are an hour south of Portland, an hour north of Eugene, an hour from the coast and a couple hours to Bend.”
In addition, all four breweries are located within miles of one another and use their small selection to their advantage.
“I think we are a very eclectic group,” Klausen said. “Between all of the breweries, we have very different styles. And this is kind of a weird thing, but the lack of craft brews is kind of cool. There are only our four choices right now, so people can hit up all four of them in the city pretty easily.”
The comradery between the breweries is also unique. Because the four breweries are all fairly new, they are experiencing the ups and downs of the industry together. They have all shared information and been supportive of one another.
“We share ideas and help each other out when needed,” Bonham said. “We all realize that we own independent businesses in the same industry, so there is the reality of that. But certainly we get along and are supportive of each other and cross promote when it makes sense.”
“We are hoping that working together to create more of a culture in Salem will raise everybody,” Klausen said. “A rising tide raises all ships. We want to work together to create that for Salem.”
The association has a few ideas in the works, such as organizing festivals and tap takeovers in Salem and other cities as well as sponsoring events in the city.
“I think if they give us a try, we will grow just like the other cities did in Oregon,” Klausen said.
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