The Labrewatory’s manager Chris Sears is pictured here with some of the equipment at the North Portland brewery. The 3.5-barrel craft beer lab can serve as a bridge for brewers who are leaving one brewery and starting out on their own. Additionally, those firmly rooted in bigger brewhouses can experiment and collaborate at the new site. Photo by Jim McLaren
By Jim McLaren
For the Oregon Beer Growler
The intersection of North Interstate Avenue and Northeast Russell Street is a good place to catch a snapshot of Portland beer culture: past, present and, perhaps, even the future.
On the corner there’s Widmer Brothers Brewing, a craft beer founder and icon. A block or so east, there’s the White Eagle Saloon & Hotel, part of the ubiquitous McMenamins chain.
Now, go a couple of more blocks to the east. At 670 N. Russell St., you’ll find a white, one-story building fronted by a couple of glass-paneled garage doors. Over one door it says:
Portland’s Craft Beer Lab
Sitting at the concrete-topped bar, manager Chris Sears explains the owners “thought there was a need for a place where people can come in and have a laundry list of experimentals and collaborations.”
The concept is simple — sort of. If it works, true Beer Geeks will have nirvana in their own backyard.
The idea for a “craft beer lab” begins with Thad Fisco, owner of Portland Kettle Works. The company is a full-service brewery fabricator that has been making steel for breweries from Norway to Japan, from Canada to Costa Rica. Just as importantly, Fisco has a long-running partnership with Jon Kellogg, a commercial real estate developer. The duo worked on rehabbing two blocks of North Williams Avenue in what Portland Monthly called the “reinvention of old streetscapes that harnesses PDX’s entrepreneurial spirit and love of the past.”
As it turns out, Fisco owned a rundown taxi cab garage that needed some reinventing. He also had an idea for making beer. But, in a unique way, without making beer. Huh?
Explanation — the folks making your favorite beer at most breweries may not have the space to make test batches of their beer daydreams. Even if they do have the room and time, they might not want to risk having you turn up your nose at their experiments.
That’s where The Labrewatory’s 3.5-barrel system comes in. Manager Sears says a brewer can whip up a batch of their latest concoction or work on a collaboration with another brewer and do it in a very quiet, pragmatic way.
The facility will be producing enough beer so that any brewer can make an inexpensive batch and split tap sales with The Labrewatory. The brewer then has a built-in test audience. Sears says they “will have public comment forms so people can give their opinions of new beers or you can go online to comment on beers by number. You won’t know who made the beer.”
It’s a win-win-win for the brewer, The Labrewatory and you.
The “craft beer lab” can also be a bridge for brewers leaving one brewery and starting out on their own. “We have the former head brewer from pFriem. He’s ventured out on his own.” Sears explains, “They’re a little delayed in their project, but he wants to get his brand going so he can get beer out and build his brand.”
The Labrewatory will, someday, have a head brewer. “We’re in the process of finding a head brewer — somebody with, obviously, experience in brewing and also a good personality because they will be working with other brewers a lot and, kind of a requirement too, the head brewer needs to pour beer at least once a week.” That brewer will be an educator, tutoring customers about the mystery beers and helping the beer makers digest customer input. Sears provided an example of that type of feedback, saying a brew “seemed to be received very well minus a couple of things. Let’s make a couple of tweaks and run it through again or let’s make the tweaks and make a decent-sized batch, put our name on it and sell it.”
Since all beer makers start small, this brewers’ playground will make room for the guy fresh out of his garage. The Labrewatory will offer advice and a chance to put a hobby to a public test. Amateurs will learn how to scale up recipes to commercial size and find out from people, other than family and friends, whether their best is good enough. But, unless they have a license, they won’t be able to take their beer home. It will have to be sold at the The Labrewatory.
The Thad Fisco project, overseen by Chris Sears, has a look as fresh as its business plan. The interior has a gleaming industrial look with metal light and bar fixtures custom-made at Kettle Works. The side of the room across from the bar features burl wood tables against a wall made of wood reclaimed from the old garage. The bar’s centerpiece is a thick tap tower with 16 handles.
The day I was there, you had numerous tasty choices, such as pFriem Blonde IPA, Upright Seven and Epic Brainless Raspberries, each for $4 per glass. As you sit at the smooth, wide bar, you can look toward the back of the building and catch a glimpse of the brewhouse. You can also raise your snifter-shaped glass and appreciate the beer against the backdrop of a well-lighted, subway-tiled, white wall.
“We kind of wanted to give it more of … old-school laboratory vibe,” Sears says. “Of course, in a lab you want it to be bright so you can see what you’re doing and analyze. That plays into the type of consumer we want to bring here. It’s hard to check out the color of your beer if it’s dim lit.”
It’s also hard to imagine that The Labrewatory won’t soon become a “must” for locals and beer tourists.
The Labrewatory hours: 3-9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, 1-6 p.m. Sunday
Tamale Boy is serving Mexican fare from a food cart to customers at The Labrewatory, but the business is in the process of building out the space next door.
By Kris McDowell
You may have seen a few Ambacht Brewing beers on tap or in the cooler at your favorite bottle shop, but those offerings are just the tip of the iceberg. For the full picture, and an exploration of all they have to offer, it's worth paying a visit to their brewery and (soon to be expanded) taproom in Hillsboro where co-owners Tom Kramer and Brandy Grobart have set up shop.
Both Tom and Brandy hail from the Midwest, Minneapolis and Chicago, respectively. Brandy had been calling the Portland area home since the early 1980s after traveling the country with a friend and deciding Portland was an appealing place to live. Tom's move to Portland was career-based for his wife, who is Brandy's cousin; the company she worked for merged with another and they found themselves relocating.
Each had embarked on homebrewing as a hobby independently, utilizing extracts, but it wasn't until Tom upped the game and purchased an all-grain setup that talk about starting a commercial operation began. During that time Tom was also volunteering at the now defunct Tuck’s Brewery in Southwest Portland. He took the next step forward by purchasing their brewing equipment—equipment that would spend a year in storage while the pair refined their homebrewing recipes.
To start a brewery, one must have a name and deciding they wanted one starting with an "a," settled upon "Ambacht," the Flemish/Dutch word for "craft." With a name in place, the next major decision was to determine a location. During their scouting phase Brandy and Tom made the conscious choice to settle outside of Portland. Brandy explained that while Portland was attractive, "because it's become a neighborhood area," the downside is that there is tremendous competition. Hillsboro offered a setting more in alignment with their plans and they secured space just west of the Hillsboro Airport.
In Ambacht's first two years they worked on fine-tuning their recipes before hitting a significant speed bump in year three. That year the pair admits they were, "making really bad beer." They suspected the source was in their system, not that the recipes or process were off. Something likely settled in during the year the equipment spent in storage. To remedy the problem, they immediately discontinued all beer sales–followed by a thorough cleaning of the system–until they were satisfied the problem had been eradicated.
Not long after resuming brewing, another issue reared its head: they had outgrown the existing space. Unable to acquire more space in the building, they were fortunate to find a larger space just across Northeast 25th Avenue. The change of physical location meant brewing was put on hold for months, after which they worked diligently to increase their production. Since then they have been doubling their production every year. This year–their sixth–the brewery is on track to produce 70 barrels on the 5-barrel system.
Ambacht's beers are not your typical Northwest brews, which is another conscious decision Tom and Brandy made at the outset. Both prefer non-hoppy, "clean Belgian" beers, resisting the general trend in the Pacific Northwest to produce an IPA. Nearly all the beers use the same yeast and the same organic hops and clock in close to 6.5% ABV. Using wine bottling equipment, they bottle condition the beer with Pacific Northwest honey. Blackberry honey, sourced from Vancouver, Wash., is most commonly used, although their Honey Triple uses either honey from Tom's backyard beekeeping operation or from Tualatin Valley Beekeepers Association.
Perhaps Ambacht's most unique beer is one that Tom will tell you is, "the most famous beer you've never heard of." That beer is Matzobraü, the only beer made with real matza, the unleavened bread traditionally eaten during the week-long Jewish Passover holiday. Brandy and Tom are Jewish and brew this beer every year after Passover when the market for matza drops out, leaving plenty of "passed over matza" to supply their needs. Fifty pounds of matza go into the mash along with two-row, Munich and chocolate malts.
In addition to producing unique beers, they've also garnered some recognition; having their Golden Farmhouse Ale named by Portland Monthly as a 2013 Best Beer and their Golden Rose Farmhouse Ale, infused with rose hips during secondary fermentation, won the Monaco Cup. The latter's earthy astringency is what Tom and Brandy have found tends to appeal most to diehard IPA drinkers. And while the Pacific Northwest is full of hop heads, it's their Ginger Farmhouse Ale that is possibly their most successful, simply "flying off the shelves."
As they look forward, the biggest excitement is a build out that will provide a more spacious taproom as well as additional storage. The expansion was one that came sooner than planned, but when the adjacent space in their building was vacated, it was a situation that was too good to pass up. It's a street-facing entrance, something that should give them greater visibility than they currently have with the side entrance. If all goes according to plan it will be completed before the end of the year, ready to reward those who seek them out.
[a] 1060 N.E. 25th Ave., Hillsboro
[p] (503) 828-1400
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