By Anthony St. Clair
For the Oregon Beer Growler
In advance of opening for the season on June 2, Detering Orchards sent out an eye-catching email to fans of their Coburg-area farm:
“During this off-season, we converted our old squash barn into a new place for people to relax and enjoy some of the best local craft cider and beer around. We are excited to announce a partnership with Eugene-based, award-winning Elk Horn Brewery. From farm-to-brewery, and back to the farm again, come out to Detering’s new Tasting Room to enjoy some Elk Horn hard cider or craft beer.”
Located north of Eugene, Detering was founded in 1934 and has become a seasonal, family-friendly mainstay destination for U-pick produce, a farm stand, food and drinks, festivals, games and other events on the working farm. In January of this year, Stephen Demergasso and his fiancee Tina Dao took over ownership. They immediately began considering new offerings to attract the public — not just for buying produce, says Demergasso, but to make the farm more of a place to “hang out.”
“The concept of the Tasting Room is you can taste the fruit in the drink,” explains Demergasso. “Detering has always made cider and done pressing for fruit. Elk Horn is a previous vendor, so I emailed and asked if they would like to have an exclusive relationship.”
Elk Horn’s owners, Colleen and Stephen Sheehan, visited and agreed. The Sheehans and Elk Horn helped Detering locate and install the equipment they needed and provided staff training on beverage descriptions and proper pouring techniques.
“It's a perfect symbiotic relationship,” says Colleen Sheehan. “Detering gets new clientele — the parents that enjoy shopping for fruit and roaming the grounds with their children while casually being able to sip on an alcoholic beverage — and we get exposure to a new group of people that might have never heard of us before.”
While Elk Horn has worked with Detering in the past, they have also often needed to source fruit and juice from farther afield. The new partnership helps them bring in fresh produce and juice straight from a farm that’s much closer to Elk Horn’s location near the University of Oregon campus in Eugene. It also adds another craft beer destination to the Coburg area, which is also the home of Crossroads Farm’s Agrarian Ales.
“I’m excited to experiment with something different and more local,” says Sheehan. “I want to do something with rhubarb, more flavors of cider, barrel-aging.”
The Tasting Room seats 30, but alcohol is allowed throughout the farm stand area. A sound system and TV allow people to catch a game or take in some live music. Visitors can wander the grounds among cows, goats and other livestock in pens, and kids (and kids at heart) can ride a new mechanical bull. There are four taps pouring two beers and two ciders from Elk Horn. Cheary Cherry and Peary Perry both featured Detering fruit. Elk Horn will provide exclusive brews for the Tasting Room as well as Elk Horn beverages available at the brewery (sometimes with slight modifications, too, such as extra cherry juice for the Detering version). Taps will rotate throughout the season as different crops come to harvest throughout summer and fall.
“We are looking at having something with rhubarb for July, maybe something else with cherries as we get those harvested and juiced,” says Demergasso, who coordinates with the Sheehans and the Elk Horn brewing team on ideas. “We definitely want to do a peachy blond beer after peach harvest, so probably come August we’ll have that available.”
As Elk Horn looks ahead to the rest of the season, they see the partnership as a way for their brewers to be as nimble as possible with the best, freshest and most local seasonal ingredients available. “As soon as they start producing fruit, we'll raid them,” says Sheehan. “Blueberries, cherries, peaches, apples — hopefully a little taste of everything!”
For Detering, Demergasso sees a chance to supply quality fruit and juice to an artisan local business and to find new ways to draw people to the farm. “I bought the farm because I believe in local farms,” he says. “It’s another way to supply the people of the south Willamette Valley with our fruit and other produce. Our farm is a fun place to hang out in the summertime, so we want to be a cultural hub for the community. People can come out here, get produce, have a drink and spend some time.”
30946 Wyatt Drive, Harrisburg
By Andi Prewitt
Of the Oregon Beer Growler
Dylan Goldsmith can tell when the beer buyers just don’t get what he’s doing.
When he begins to describe how he malts his own grain, he’s often met with blank looks. He hears questions like, “Well, doesn’t everybody do that?” It just doesn’t register. And that’s not just the buyers. All too many beer drinkers lack a clear understanding of what it takes to turn a raw barley kernel into usable malt.
“I think a lot of people just kind of have no idea about the process of it,” said Goldsmith, “which is why my job would be to try and see if I can elicit flavors out of the barley by my own process.”
This extra effort is what sets Goldsmith and Barley Sprout Restaurant & Brewery apart from other beer producers in the state. Since malting barley not only takes more time, but also additional space, you may be wondering where this Gresham business is brewing, serving pizza that’s made in-house as well as experimenting with grain. Well, if you tripped over the word “Gresham” just now because you didn’t realize the rather bleak outer-eastside beer scene had gotten a little busier, you’d be forgiven. It’s easy to miss the unassuming storefront when zipping along Southeast 223rd Avenue — a strip better defined by big-box stores and car dealerships than boutique breweries. But Goldsmith and co-owner David Shonk have managed to carve out a little slice of rural life in Gresham’s Twelvemile corner. Goldmith’s malting allows him to source much of his grain from local growers. Shonk, who’s also a farmer, uses some of his produce for both the food and beer. And you’d never know it by looking at it from the outside, but just a few hundred feet from four lanes of traffic and the nearby Lucky 7 Food Mart lies a secret garden of sorts. Behind the brewery, on Shonk’s family land, is a 4-acre farm leased to a Community Supported Agriculture organization.
Cultivating longstanding ties with farmers who grow everything from barley to hops is one reason why Goldsmith began malting. He pushes back against purchasing practices that simply treat “the ingredients for the beer as an anonymous commodity where you don’t know where it came from. You don’t necessarily know beyond certain reasonable standards how it was treated,” Goldsmith said.
Instead, he envisions a model where two businesses enter a form of commitment. A buyer, for example, won’t simply switch suppliers at the drop of a coaster should a competitor temporarily lower prices.
“The idea of having ongoing relationships with the farmers and the producers of your stuff to where you know if times get hard that we’ve been doing business for a while and we can support each other. Whereas beyond that, it’s just the free market,” Goldsmith said. “I think that is an important part of sustainability that’s difficult to quantify. But I think in the long haul, that kind of thing really does make a difference.”
Beyond the “I’ve-got-your-back” ethos that turned him on to malting, Goldsmith has other goals. The label on his IPA now says “100-percent Oregon farmer grown.” That’s because he buys those grains in-state and can process them himself. Eventually, he’d like to avoid buying from the big malthouses altogether. Additionally, he hopes to tease out the best expressions of the terroir of different grains. Goldsmith said he’s still discovering his skills as a maltster, but with time is curious to discover whether barley grown in, say, Goble tastes different due to geology versus grains from Sauvie Island.
While you now have a greater appreciation for the reasons why Goldsmith does this, the how may still be obscure. Malting is a four-step process that releases the barley kernel’s enzymes in order to break down the lattice of protein protecting the energy stored as starch — the stuff that’s converted to sugars brewers need.
The first objective of malting is to encourage the seed to begin the early stages of what it’s meant to do: grow into another barley plant. That’s initiated by steeping, which is step one. Goldsmith soaks and aerates his grains about three times until they’re 45 percent water by weight.
Germination is phase two — where the acrospires begin to push their way through the length of the kernel, unlocking those enzymes that degrade the protein. Air flow is key since the rootlets could tangle and become sort of a massive dreadlock, encouraging mold growth. To promote circulation, Goldsmith’s germination box has a false bottom — similar to a mash tun — and he turns the barley with a pitchfork.
After approximately five days, the grain is ready to dry. This must be done slowly at first to preserve the temperature-sensitive enzymes. When the barley is brought down to 3-5 percent water by weight, curing can get underway. How high a brewer runs that temperature and for how long is what really gives the malt its character.
A shorter summary of the malting process is reflected in the brewery’s name: Barley Sprout, which hadn’t yet been snapped up by another business to Goldsmith’s surprise. Though he’s not just making beer for the pizza restaurant. Goldsmith has revived his 10-year-old label Captured by Porches under the same roof and self-distributes those bottles and kegs, which was how he met Shonk before they decided to launch the Gresham brewery and eatery. Shonk used to run a natural food store in the same building and sold Captured by Porches beer.
“And it was an excellent account. His customers really liked it,” Goldsmith recalled. “I think if you compared the number of bottles sold to square footage of grocery store space, I’d say by that math it was the best account.”
The grocery’s chapter came to an end not long after a larger competitor took up residence nearby. But the change allowed Shonk to focus on upgrading his kitchen space.
“I was ripe for the opportunity to take on more stainless steel, more BTUs — take on the challenges of restauranteurship,” he said.
Goldsmith was also ready to move out of his cramped quarters in St. Helens to a bigger facility. Shonk proposed the partnership: “starting a restaurant and brewery together as a way to double our positives and share on the cost.”
This April marks one year since they opened, and so far Shonk said business has been steady due to positive word of mouth. And Goldsmith isn’t the only one at Barley Sprout now crafting beverages. Shonk’s Honey Lavender Lemonade has a tingly carbonation kick that’s proven to be such a hit, they sell to-go bottles. As the weather improves, you’ll be able to enjoy a lemonade or a beer in the restaurant’s backyard. Shonk plans to use part of the farmland for a beer garden, giving customers an opportunity to share a meal right next to a visual reminder about local source and sustainability — two values at Barley Sprout’s core.
“By creating a little bit of peace and quiet and deliciousness in this corner of the world, it ripples out,” Shonk said.
Barley Sprout Restaurant & Brewery
639 SE 223rd Ave, Gresham
OBG Blog Archives
Welcome to our archive pages! Read stories from the print edition of the Oregon Beer Growler from June 2012 to January 2018. For newer stories, please visit our new website at: