By John Foyston
For the Oregon Beer Growler
The Commons recently celebrated its fourth year as a brewery, not especially young by Portland standards, but still one of my favorite success stories thanks to its beginnings as Beetje – a one-man nanobrewery in owner Mike Wright's Southeast Portland garage.
Nowadays, The Commons is one of Portland's favorite Good Beer Hangouts. It occupies a 10,000-square-foot space, a windows-on-the world corner of Southeast Belmont Street. The building comprises a handsome, woody taproom, the original Commons brew system up front for display, the Cheese Annex serving artisan cheese and charcuterie, a 15-barrel JV Northwest production brewery in back and a crew of a dozen or more brewers and pubsters. It's three times larger than the previous location – and about 50 times larger than the garage in which Wright started Beetje Brewing in 2009.
Yes, other breweries have traced similar or steeper trajectories – Ninkasi, of course, which became a national player in less than a decade; Breakside, which quickly outgrew its brewpub beginnings to add a big new production brewery; Fort George, which now inhabits an entire block of downtown Astoria; Cascade, which brought sour beer to national prominence; and others.
But The Commons is a story I know well, having followed it since the garage days, and Mike Wright's philosophy is one that describes why I – and a lot of you, I suspect – love craft beer: “The important thing is not the beer itself, but the interaction and socializing that happen around good beer,” he said when he made the considerable leap from garage to industrial space; from a cobbled-together, 1-barrel nanobrewery to a professional, 7-barrel brewhouse; and from a one-man show to being an employer with a cellarman and brewer Sean Burke.
It wasn't until September of 2012 that he quit his day job, perhaps thinking back to what he said at Beetje (Flemish for “little bit” and a tribute to his wife Kaatje, who was born in the Flemish town of Roeselare) – “I know I won’t be supporting my family with the amount of beer I can make in my garage,” he said in a 2010 interview, “but I'm having fun and making beers that I want to make.”
“At the risk of being too romantic,” he said back then, “imagine a small, rustic farmhouse brewery in the inner city. The beers are everyday-drinking beers, not super-complex, monster bombs. Plenty of breweries make those. I enjoy spending time with friends and good food, and drinking a sessionable beverage is the driving force behind the beers I make.”
That philosophy was at the heart of The Commons, with its motto of “Gather around beer,” and was the reason that its tasting room was one of Portland's favorites — an intimate, woody space tucked away in the corner of a handsomely revamped industrial space, which had high ceilings, brick walls, tall windows and barrel-aging racks. It was a one-of-kind space, where patrons could drink in the brewery. People loved it, but it wasn't ideal: “It was a little too integrated with the brewery,” Wright said in 2014. “We could either brew beer or have the tasting room open, but not both. I had brewers all the time who asked, 'How did you guys get away with having the tasting room in the brewery?' And the truth is, we got lucky – it’d never get approved again.”
The new tasting room has a nearly identical feel thanks to lots of honest, unadorned wood, high ceilings, concrete floors, the original 7-barrel brewhouse up front and sightlines into the production brewery, but barriers now separate the spaces. “We wanted to recreate the aesthetic of our first tasting room on a bigger scale,” said Wright. “We want to keep people connected with the brewery, because there's nothing better than having people here enjoying your beer.”
Mission accomplished: the new brewery taproom opened in late March 2015, just in time for the thousands of professional brewers who trekked to Portland for the Craft Brewers Conference last April, and it has since become a favorite spot for townies and tourists alike looking for a pint of that brilliant Urban Farmhouse Ale, or Myrtle, or their beautiful Pils.
And those 13 taps are pouring a LOT of Commons beer these days. “We actually have walk-in customers now,” Wright says, “the old location was a true destination type place – only people who knew about us would visit. While that has a certain cachet for some, it wasn't a sustainable business model. We love the opportunity to introduce our beer to new people and the high-profile location offers us many more opportunities to do that. The new, purpose-built cellar and added storage have made a world of difference on the production side of the equation.”
The production side is well served. There was a day last February when the JV Northwest crew rolled up with a brewery on a truck and brewer Burke knew he could soon trade the tool belt he'd worn during months of build-out for his brewer rubber boots.
“They showed up at 7 a.m. with trucks and 12 hours later they had it mostly installed,” said Burke, who was excited as only a brewer can be about the versatility of the system. “I asked for a list of things and I got every one of them. We can do straight mashes, step mashes, decoction mashes, turbid mashes — the system is amazingly flexible. JV Northwest really delivered on the engineering, plus I think they wanted a showcase system on their home turf.”
Great beer, a coherent vision and the unassuming, homey feel of the tasting room make The Commons a true Portland gem: “Portland has a rich pub culture where consumers desire variety and a broad range of flavors,” Wright said. “That allows a niche brewery like The Commons to exist and thrive because we provide an alternative to Portland's many hop-forward beers. Could I have guessed we'd be here today when you and I met in the garage? No! No way. I had no idea the business would be where it is today. It's really amazing and gratifying to where we are. I'm very lucky.”
So is Portland, Mr. Wright, so is Portland.
Steve Jones, Portland’s best-known cheesemonger, stands near one of his cheeseboards, available at The Commons Brewery at Southeast 7th Avenue and Belmont Street. Jones recently opened his third cheese tasting eatery here, Cheese Annex. One of the cheese boards available at Cheese Annex is shown here paired with The Commons Urban Farmhouse Ale and Walnut, a Belgian dark ale. Photo by Patty Mamula
By Patty Mamula
For the Oregon Beer Growler
Beer and cheese were made for each other. Steve Jones, Portland’s best-known cheesemonger, always felt that beer was the winning beverage to pair with cheese. He put this idea to the test five years ago when he opened Cheese Bar in Southeast Portland. It was an immediate success.
“Beer has so many winning components that wine doesn’t have,” he said.
“It’s effervescent, grain-based and the terroir in beer and cheese shares grain as the common denominator. With its bubbles, beer keeps the mouth refreshed and there are so many different styles.”
Steve Jones and Janet Fletcher, the author of “Cheese and Beer” and “The Cheese Course” along with a host of other food books and articles, presented “Suds and Curds: Using Cheese to Sell More Beer” in April for the Craft Brewers Conference in Portland.
Fletcher discussed several different beer and cheese eateries, including a brewpub, a specialty grocery/hybrid pub, a bottle shop with cheese boards and another specialty grocery, presenting detailed information about cheese offerings, costs, total revenue of the establishment and pairing components.
Jones discussed his three establishments. The Cheese Bar was the first and largest with more than 200 varieties of cheese, a full kitchen, six taps with five beers and one cider, 50 to 75 different bottled beers, five or six bottled ciders and 25 or 30 wines.
In March, he opened two new eateries. Downtown at Southwest 11th Avenue and Alder Street is Chizu, an intimate 18-seat, Japanese-inspired bar with a sushi-type format for cheese tasting. Jones carefully chose a variety of 30 cheeses, bottled beers that lean heavier towards Belgians and a few ciders and wines.
He also collaborated with his friend Mike Wright at The Commons Brewery’s new location at Southeast 7th Avenue and Belmont Street, to open the Cheese Annex, a walk-up window cheese bar within the brewery. “We’re a lessee,” said Jones. “I pay a base rent and 5 percent gross. This Commons beer is so cheese friendly.”
Jones combined his artistic talent -- his undergraduate degree is in studio arts and painting -- with his experience as a professional chef when he flipped into retail food about 20 years ago in St. Louis, Mo. He started at a small beer store, opening a deli there that he built from the ground up. “With my art background, my cheese board displays were pretty enticing,” he said.
After that he was hooked on cheese, opening up three shops with a partner that featured American artisan farmstead cheese, before moving back to Portland and managing the cheese department for Provvista Specialty Foods, where he bought on a multimillion-dollar scale. Before the Cheese Bar, there was Steve’s — his first shop in Northwest Portland — in the corner of a wine shop.
Jones said, “We work hard to have a number of avenues to move our cheese. We turn over 200 cheeses at the Cheese Bar in two weeks. We may buy an 80-pound wheel and sell one-fourth of it right away. We wholesale the 20 pounds, selling it in 2-pound blocks to restaurants. The chefs are very excited — even though ours cost more, its fresh and high quality.”
Regarding specific cheese recommendations, a question from the audience was: What cheeses are recommended when starting out?
Fletcher suggested manchego cheese. “Spanish cheese is very affordable,” she said. She also mentioned comte, a French cheese made from unpasteurized cow’s milk in eastern France and pecorino from Italy. “Most of the European cheeses are affordable because they are subsidized,” she said. Locally, she likes a Beehive Cheese from northern Utah that’s a Cheddar style coated with coffee bean.
Another question asked: If you could only manage one option, what would it be?
Jones said, “Raclette. If you’re very constrained, you might have a cheesemonger come in a couple times.”
Fletcher said, “I like the idea of having only one option each night. That way you could get known for something special.”
Jones likes to work with small cheese producers, ones that might be a little under the radar. “We like naturally organic and work hard to find the special ones. The ones with a story.” On the receiving end, his team inspects the cheese thoroughly. “My team is well trained for that,” he said.
Proper storage is very important and there were questions about how to wrap the cheese. Jones said they use patty paper and microporous paper to keep the cheese from touching plastic containers. “We do everything cut to order in 1-ounce portions. It makes such a difference. “
Questions abounded about pairings. Jones talked about a recent pairing with a donated cheese. He met with The Commons brewer and they paired the cheese with a brown ale. “The chocolaty, malt-forward taste blended well with the cheddar sweetness.” Usually in pairings he prefers tastes that contrast rather than harmonize.
In regard to a question about recommended books, the natural answer was to look at Fletcher’s. For information, visit: www.planetcheese.org
For information about the fourth annual Beer and Cheese Fest on June 21 at The Commons, visit: www.facebook.com/PortlandBeerAndCheeseFest
OBG Blog Archives
Welcome to our archive pages! Read stories from the print edition of the Oregon Beer Growler from June 2012 to January 2018. For newer stories, please visit our new website at: